本研究主要探討近三十年來台灣家庭飲食習慣的變遷之下,家庭煮食習慣與用餐經驗的轉變對於家庭記憶與認同建構的過程是否產生影響。「飲食」一向被視為具備著凝聚群體的社會功能, 而家庭料理與共餐時光更是產生家庭記憶、凝聚家庭成員並進一步再製家庭認同的重要方式之 一。然而台灣在過去的 20、30 年間歷經社會及家庭結構劇烈變遷、外食蓬勃發展等變化,家庭 煮食經驗如以家為主的烹調過程、家庭的獨特口味與家庭共餐行為,也隨之有所不同。本研究透 過深度訪談不同世代的家庭成員,試圖爬梳兩大面向:家庭煮食經驗在多項社會因素變遷下的影 響為何;以及家庭煮食行為在社會結構的改變下,如何延續其塑造家庭記憶與認同的功能。
但受到社會脈絡影響,家庭煮食也為了維持其產生家庭記憶、連結家庭社群情感的功能,有 流程簡化、多元化及與外食交織的情況。而相對於過去,家庭煮食從記憶沈澱的習慣轉變成具有 神聖性的儀式,也特別強調了其對於家庭成員關愛與照護情感的功能,更是維持家族節日團聚傳 統的重要媒介;另一方面,本研究也發現外食與家庭煮食並非預設的競爭關係,在家庭傳統煮食 的理想與現實條件的取捨下,外食成為維持家庭煮食習慣的替代方案,家庭煮食背後隱藏的女性 家務責任也透過外食被緩解,在社會價值觀變遷下,家庭煮食不再僅是義務,更成為表達家庭情 感、產生自我認同與成就感的方式。
This study examines the effects of the family-cooking transitions on family memories and identity-formation among Taiwanese dietary transformation during the past 30 years. Cooking can be a part of solidification for social groups; moreover, family-cooking and eating-together are significant parts of family memories and identity-formation. Nevertheless, during past 30 years, the drastic social and family structure changes (and thus consequently, the growing eating-out social trend) in Taiwan did bring transformations as for family-centered cooking process, “Grandma's cooking”, eating-together habits, and so on. I conducted In-depth interviews to uncovers the outcomes of social changes on family-cooking and to illuminate how family memories and identities (which resulted from family-cooking) maintain and/or adjust according to the social changes.
The research results show that, family-cooking weakens during the changing of dietary habits, but the values underneath family-cooking remains. Family members are still holding the belief and maintaining cooking by kinds of strategies, that is to say, to a great extent, family-cooking is still regarded as “superior” to eating-out. On the one hand, Family-cooking became simplified and interweaved with eating-out to keep constructing family memories and identity. Additionally, family-cooking is more “sacred” than before and also is emphasized as playing the caring function. Further, it is part of important agents of reunion. On the other hand, eating-out doesn’t “compete” against family-cooking. Quite in the contrast, undergoing the dietary change, eating- out is “included” in family-cooking. Women are released from traditional household responsibilities. For Women, family-cooking is no longer their “duty,” but also as a valid way to express their emotions, to form their self-identity and as an accomplishment.
Keywords: family cooking; eating out; memory; dietary change; family identity