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三鶯研究

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從文化分析回到經濟社會學:臺灣咖啡館擴張遲緩的歷史比較分析
(碩士班:李怡芳) (指導教授:黃樹仁)

刊登日期:2008-08-31  
友善列印


  • 研究生: 李怡芳
  • 論文名稱: 從文化分析回到經濟社會學:臺灣咖啡館擴張遲緩的歷史比較分析
  • 指導教授: 黃樹仁
  • 關鍵字: 咖啡館、階級、擴散、貿易管制
  • [摘要]

    咖啡館源自15世紀中期葉門,16世紀以降廣泛傳播至世界各地。在歐美與部份東亞國家,咖啡館早已成為跨階級的飲食場所,並與在地平民文化互涉交融。台灣則遲至21世紀以後,咖啡館消費方才逐漸擴展至下層階級,至今咖啡館仍然保有濃厚的中上階級品味意象。相較於其他國家,臺灣咖啡館發生跨階級擴散遲緩的現象。

    在西方學術典範的引導下,臺灣學者大多直接引用外國的理論概念,來詮釋臺灣中上階級的咖啡館消費行為,並強調咖啡館蘊含的文化意涵。在缺乏政治經濟分析與跨國比較的情況下,既有研究並未明確意識到臺灣咖啡館發生跨階級擴散遲緩的現象。過度遷就理論概念而缺乏政治經濟結構分析的學術弊病,並非為臺灣咖啡館研究所獨有,而是文化研究亟待解決的宿弊,同時也體現了臺灣做為一個小國所面臨的學術困境。

    有別於既有研究以文化詮釋為主體,作者將回歸經濟社會學的探討,透過政治經濟分析與跨國比較,為臺灣咖啡館的特殊發展模式尋找歸因。臺灣咖啡館之所以發生跨階級擴散遲緩的現象,主要原因在於1980年代末期以前政府的貿易管制與咖啡的高進口關稅。在理論關懷上,本文從擴散理論出發,將咖啡館視為一種創新,透過香港、日本與臺灣咖啡館擴散的跨國比較,指出國家的經濟決策是影響咖啡館能否呈現跨階級擴散的重要因素。

  • [ 英文摘要 ]

    Café originated in Yemen in the middle of the 15th century, and spreads all over the world ever since. Nowadays, Café has become popular gathering place for various social classes in Europe, America and parts of East Asia, and everywhere it has interweaved with local cultural elements. Yet in Taiwan café has barely started to appeal to the underclass in the beginning of the 21st century, and has retained a strong affiliation with upper-middle-class taste. Comparing with other countries, Taiwan has experienced a cross-class diffusion-delay of café.

    Taking hints from western culture studies, Taiwanese scholars’ studies of café tend to elaborate on its affiliation with upper-middle-class taste. Lacking empirical study and international comparison, existing studies have not even realized that café in Taiwan has experienced an unusual cross-class diffusion-delay that deserves an explanation, and that café’s affiliation with upper-middle-class taste in Taiwan is probably determined by economic rather than cultural factors.

    This thesis starts with diffusion theory, regarding café as an innovation whose pace of cross-national and cross-class diffusion need to be explained. While Hong Kong and Japan enjoyed relatively early free trade and saw café diffused widely across class line since their introduction from the West, Taiwan suffered severe trade restriction until late 1980s. High tariff on coffee has effectively prevented the cross-class diffusion of café in Taiwan until 1990’s. This diffusion-delay has nothing to do with class taste. It is rather solely determined by the state’s economic policy.