校園一隅

三鶯研究

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飲食文化與地方認同- 以臺灣料理中的北投酒家菜為例
(研究生:王禕祺)(指導教授:葉欣怡)

刊登日期:2023-09-07  
友善列印
飲食不僅提供生物體運作的能量,也富含豐富的社會意義,飲食文化的變遷與發展軌跡多半被視為理所當然,對於這些發展並未仔細檢視其與社會有著複雜的關係。而我們對於飲食的定義、分辨可食用與不可食用也會隨著時間有所改變,當我們選擇食用某些食物時,背後也隱含著我們對於自身或者社會的認同,而這些認同也經常被有權者所掌握,並且建構出特定的形象與意義。我們會對於特定國家的人民食用什麼有著既定的印象,並透過這些印象來進行劃界工作,同時也會透過重複著這行為來增加我們彼此的認同。本研究以臺灣料理中的酒家菜做為案例,探討飲食的社會性—飲食如何被社會所建構進而產生認同與劃界,同時這些建構背後的行動者是誰,他們如何透過飲食形塑認同以及目的為何。並藉此補足過去人們並未仔細檢視的飲食變遷與發展軌跡和社會關係的關係。

過去相關的文獻大多是針對臺灣料理的發展分成日治、國民黨政府、民主化後三個時期進行論述,但其中並未針對為何會有這種轉變進行較深入的探討,同時多半以整個臺灣料理作為論述基礎,對於單一菜色如何有著這些轉變以及其背後的社會因素與行動者皆未有所探討。而北投酒家菜透過了政府及溫泉業者反覆的塑造不同的形象,來達成他們所想要的目的,同時也將酒家菜視為消弭業績差異的工具,進而忽略了過去酒家菜所蘊含的文化意義以及居民多半依附酒家菜相關產業生活的脈絡。這也導致了北投酒家菜在現今無法再度成為認同的主因。



Diet not only provides the energy for the functioning of organisms but also carries rich social significance. The changes and development trajectory of dietary culture are often taken for granted, and the complex relationship between these developments and society is not carefully examined. Our definitions and distinctions of what is edible and inedible also change over time. When we choose to consume certain foods, it also implies our identification with ourselves or society. These identifications are often controlled by those in power, constructing specific images and meanings. We hold predefined impressions of what people from specific countries consume, and through these impressions, we draw boundaries. This behavior of repetition also enhances our mutual identification.This study takes the Beitou "Jiou Jia Tsai" in Taiwanese cuisine as an example to explore the sociability of diet. It investigates how diet is constructed by society, leading to the formation of identity and boundaries. At the same time, it examines who the actors behind these constructions are, how they shape identity through diet, and what their intentions are. Through this, it seeks to fill in the gaps in examining the relationship between dietary changes, development trajectory, and social relations that people have not scrutinized in the past.

Past related literature mostly discusses the development of Taiwanese cuisine in three periods: the Japanese colonial era, the Nationalist government era, and the post-democratization era. However, there hasn't been a deeper exploration into the reasons behind these transitions. Moreover, the discussions mostly revolve around Taiwanese cuisine as a whole, without delving into how individual dishes undergo these changes or examining the societal factors and actors behind them. Through repeated efforts by the government and hot spring industry, Beitou "Jiou Jia Tsai" have been molded with different images to achieve their desired objectives. In doing so, the cultural significance embedded in Beitou "Jiou Jia Tsai" and the context of residents' reliance on related industries have been overlooked. This has also resulted in Beitou "Jiou Jia Tsai" no longer being a primary source of identification in the present day.