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三鶯研究

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觀看‧服裝:從服裝選擇看中學姓教師的身體規訓與自我觀看
(碩專班:閻秀慧) (指導教授:王雅各)

刊登日期:2011-08-31  
友善列印


  • 研究生: 閻秀慧
  • 論文名稱: 觀看‧服裝:從服裝選擇看中學姓教師的身體規訓與自我觀看
  • 指導教授: 王雅各
  • 關鍵字: 身體規訓、自我觀看、女性教師、服裝展演
  • 服裝不僅是遮體避寒的衣料,更是身體政治的展現:銘刻身份地位、印象整飾、權力象徵、性別意識等的痕跡。尤其對女性教師而言,在學校的穿著並非純粹個人風格的展現,社會價值在觀看教師的服裝時,儼然有一套標準規範。

    本研究深度訪談10位高中、國中女性教師,依教學年資分為三個世代,探討女性教師的服裝規範為何?這套規範是如何被規訓?被誰所規訓?以及女性教師如何自我觀看這套服裝規訓?父權結構如何藉由外在的衣飾規訓女性教師內在的身體意識,即是本研究的主軸。

    社會體制對於女性教師的規約限制是代代相承,資深女性教師深植內化了傳統社會與師範教育對於女性身體的規訓,有領有袖、端莊保守的裝束不僅是她外在的服儀,更是被馴化身體的表徵。資深教師認同這種規訓,並將符合規訓的身體形貌標誌為「有老師的樣子」、「穿得像老師」,透過師資培育中心、實習、教甄、校園倫理的層層篩選與監控,女性教師的身體被框限型塑成標準的樣貌,而這種標準身體樣貌的捍衛者與依循者卻是女性本身。資深女性之所以願意擔任規範的捍衛者與規訓者,絕非衷心認同這套桎梏女性身體的規訓,而是在漫天父權體制籠罩之下,唯有服膺規範的女性才能獲得社會優勢價值的認同。當女性教師一旦穿著暴露花俏、舉止逾越端莊嚴謹的社會期待時,觀看者(特別是男性觀看者)無論是同事、家長,甚或學生,會對被觀看的女性教師產生不尊重、輕佻的意念想法,認為不符合服裝規範的教師亦不具備為人師表的風範。此時,父權體制以更幽微的方式規制著女性的身體,讓女人規訓著女人,而真正的壓迫者卻退隱至幕後,匿跡銷聲。

    不可否認地,社會優勢價值與傳統家庭、師資培育系統對於女性教師有標準化的身體規訓、服裝標準,但新一輩的女性教師已開始思考這套規訓的應對方式,她們的覺醒在代代相承的標準服裝規訓中產生了質變,企圖同中存異,在相同的規範中仍能穿戴出自身的品味與風格。並且,女性教師瞭解社會對於這項職業的期待,她知道自己在被觀看,當她實踐社會所期許的言行舉止時,只是遵循遊戲規則而行動,並非全然內化這套社會規訓、並非完全認同這套遊戲規則。當卸下教師的戲服,她仍是獨立、自由的個體,不是表面上看似的被制約者。年輕女教師的馴服只是一場服裝展演,這場展演是她自由意識下的選擇,而非被性別刻板印象束縛的被制約者。她們游移在規範的縫隙中,是一群自主的行動者。期待具有性別意識的新一輩女性教師透過教育破除學生的性別刻板印象,真正達成性別平等的社會!


  • Abstract

    This research involved thorough interviews of ten female junior high and high school teachers. They are divided into three generations according to their work experiences in order to discuss the norm of female teachers’ costume. How and by whom the norm is disciplined, and how the female teachers thought of the costume norm. And how does the patriarchal system disciplined female teacher’s body consciousness with exterior clothing is the main point of this research.

    In the social systems, the restrictions on female teachers exist from generation to generation. Senior female teachers are internalized the discipline to female body, which is cultivated by society and the normal education. The dignified and conservative clothes with collars and sleeves are not only the standard external looks but also the exhibition of tamed body. Senior teachers marked the looks, which conform to the discipline they approved, as “teacher’s feather” or “dressed like a teacher”. Selected and monitored by teacher education institute, practical training, selection of school teachers, and campus ethics, female teachers’ bodies have molded as a standard appearance though it is defended and obeyed by women themselves.

    Senior women agree to be the defender and enforcer of the norm, which imprisons women bodies. However, they are absolutely not voluntary. It is because of the control of the patriarchal system. Only the one who submit themselves to the norm can she gain the social superiority’s identification. Once female teachers are scantily clad, dressing too fancy, or their behavior beyond propriety, the viewers (especially male viewers), colleagues, students’ parents, even students will disrespect them, thinking that they are not fit in with the model of virtue. In the meantime, the patriarchal system dominates female body in a more veiled way, forcing women to discipline other women; however, the real oppressor is pulling the strings behind the scene.

    It is undeniable that social superiority value, conventional household and the teacher cultivating system have a standardized body discipline and dress code to the female teachers. However, the female teachers come from a new generation start to think about the way to deal with this discipline. Their awakenings change the dress code, which was inherited through generations. Restricted by the norm, they still try to make some differences. They dress in their own way to show the taste and style of themselves. Moreover, the female teachers understand that the society’s expectations to their careers. They know they are being watched. When they are practicing their behaviors and speaking their words to meet the mass expectations, they are just following the rule of the society instead of completely internalizing the social discipline and accepting this rule.

    When they are extracted from the role of teacher, unlike the dominated people seen on the surface, they are still independent and free individuals. The taming of the young female teachers is just a performance in costume. This performance is performed under their free senses of choices. It is not restricted by the stereotype of gender. They are a group of independent actors, swaying within the chink of the norm, waiting for a new group of female teachers who possess the gender consciousness to break students’ stereotype of gender by education, and accomplish a society of real gender equality.